THE
IMPROVED MAN
"He
had come a long way to this blue lawn,
and his dream must have seemed so close that
he could hardly fail to grasp it."
The Great Gatsby
"Il
buono e el bello."
Motto engraved above the door
of Andrew Jackson Downing's home
In
1850, Andrew Jackson Downing looked out from the highest tower
of Warwick Castle and decided that to England it had been given
to show the growth of man in highest development of class but
to America has been reserved the greater blessing of solving for
the world the true problem of humanitythat of the abolition
of all castes, and the recognition of the divine rights of every
human soul.
There
was an enormous Warwick vase on Downing's estate, etched with
fantastic arabesques around the bowl, and set out at the end of
his splendid, velvet lawn it formed one of his exquisite vistas
of the river and the rolling hills of the Hudson Valley.
His
perfect little pictures in which every tree, every magnolia bush
and wisteria arbor directed his guests' eyes toward exactly what
Downing wanted them see the river the hills the natural beautyand
away from what he did not want them to see which were the raw
industrial town of Newburgh, New York, with its factories, and
its cotton mills, and the herds of pigs running loose in its unpaved
streets and the working part of Downing's estate, the tree nurseries
and the botanical gardens where he still made his living for at
Highland Gardens work was banished.
Downing's
guests came downstairs in the morning to find the white gravel
paths already raked. The plush, tinted lawns already rolled as
if by invisible hands.
And
beside their plates were the fresh-cut blossoms deemed most fitting
to their personalities tea roses and honeysuckle for the tenderhearted
violets and pansies for the modest and shy marigolds and asters
and carnations for the brilliant and gay
And
after breakfast there would be boating and long walks, and archery,
and books and conversation.
And
after dinner, out on the moonlit summer lawn they would make music,
and sample new wines they would sing Oh, Fly Me to the Prairie
and Rocked in the Cradle of the Deep, and there would be
charades around the giant Warwick vase but Downing who was good
at everything was too reserved to make himself understood.
With
Downing there were always mysteries within mysteries, secrets
within secrets beginning with himself. In social intercourse he
was like two persons: the one conversed with you pleasantly upon
every topic, the other watched you from behind that pleasant talk,
like a sentinel
At
sixteen Andrew Jackson Downing was a slender, watchful boy, with
luminous brown eyes. Son of a wheelwright, from an old Puritan
family (a man who had left his first wife and family in
Lexington, Massachusetts, and went West to start over again to
raise a new family and speculate in real estate and start a tree
nursery)
His
formal education was over. He knew the classics and how to make
architectural drawings and landscape drawings and translate articles
from the original French. He liked to swim across the broad, deceptive
river with its treacherous crosscurrents and take walks in the
woods and fields along its banks observing everything
It
might not have been enough.
Andrew
inherited the tree nursery and he was soon renowned in Newburgh
for cultivating one-hundred-and-fifty varieties of apples and
two hundred separate varieties of pear. Turning out fruit more
quickly than the industrialists turned out styles of hats or shoes
in their factories down in the town.
That was where he might have stayed.
One
more quietly frustrated, self-made man in a provincial town. Like
thousands of other self-made men, stranded along every river and
prairie bluff of the sprawling new nation. Churning out his pears
and apples. Then something happened.
A
miraculous storya ridiculous story, really. A purely American
story. He met a baron.
The
Baron Alois Freiherr von Lederer, Austria's consul-general in
New York who also liked to walk the hills and woods, collecting
rare specimens of rocks and shells. One day he came across another
rare specimen the quiet boy, with luminous brown eyes, and before
the afternoon was over they had become fast friends.
Downing
showed the Baron all of his favorite places, and the Baron taught
him botany and mineralogy, and introduced him to the great families
that lived along the river. He brought him to Edward Armstrong,
who lived in a Greek Revival temple up over the Danskammerthe
flat, jutting rock where Henry Hudson had once seen the Indians
at their pagan dances Edward Armstrong, the beau ideal of river
society, who played the violin and wrote poems, and danced a perfect
double pigeonwing, and raised thoroughbred horses in his stables
and Southdown sheep along his broad meadows and his wife, who
painted watercolors, and spoke flawless French and Italian, and
played the piano, and who was witty and gay and beautiful
Downing
set out to study them, as he would the rocks and the plants, and
the dead birds and the mummified bones of lizards he found in
the fields and the woods. And they took him in charmed by his
innate good manners, by his quiet and graceful nature and Downing
decided to resist his mother's urgings that he apprentice as a
clerk in a dry goods store.
By
nineteen he was landscape architect and gardener to the great,
old river families more aloof in their way than even the codfish
aristocracy of Boston or the planters of Charlestonthese
Van Rensselaers and Van Wycks, these Roosevelts and Delanos, these
Schuylers and De Peysters and Van Cortlandts and Brinckerhoffs.
Yet
who were willing to accommodate talented and persistent outsiders,
ever since the English first showed up in New Amsterdam harbor
with their men o' war.
It
was a bad time for the river families. They were cashing in their
land down in the unspeakable City. Building redoubts against the
tenant farmers they treated like so many serfs. Throwing up one
imitation Greek temple after another, in tribute to the austere
ideals of the Republic they despised.
Even
importing Mayan ruins stone warriors and jaguars and winged serpents,
to plant up in the hills and pretend that they had always been
there and always would be never mind the Indians who used to dance
along the Danskammer rock or the unfortunate Tories whose lands
and homes they nested in like so many wasps. Downing taught them:
how to blend in
He
taught them how to make their homes and their gardens look like
something that had sprung up naturally from the Hudson landscape.
He taught them that landscape and architecture must fit the country
around it. Both must heed the land, the climate where they were
set but neither was supposed to imitate nature.
Nature
must always serve man Nature was always there to be improved upon
whether that meant vegetables and fruits or landscapes or human
civilization (Downing regretted the absence of the Indians along
the Danskammer but felt it was inevitable that they should go.)
Above
all Downing was determined to improve himself. He learned how
to dress and to dance. He ate and drank little, never used tobacco.
Wore his thick dark hair long over his collar. Visitors thought
he might have been a Spanish aristocrat, fresh from the Escorial.
He
was tall and erect, spoke and walked with an easy, learned elegance.
He learned how to be gay and jocular with the gay, and silent
with the silent He learned to be many things to many people, and
they loved him for it.
And
then one day he came to the great estate just across the river.
He must have seen it many times, growing up. Swimming across the
deceptive, deep-currented Hudson
It
was called Locust Grove, for the trees grown so high that their
branches entwined like the vaulted ceiling of a cathedral. (he
could match and surpass the old families in taste but there was
no getting around age) The estate of John Peter DeWint, who had
a hand in the Caribbean sugar trade and real estate, and who owned
ferry boats and whaling ships and railroad stocks and whose wife
was a granddaughter of John Adams, who liked to fill her sumptuous
gardens with beautiful young painters and writers, and chocolate-box
soldiers from up West Point in their smart, gray tunics and whose
daughter was a bright young, birdlike woman named Caroline, with
merry blue eyes and blond hair and a ready wit.
They
were married with a grand dance and supper, and Caroline watched
through a telescope across the river as he built their new home.
Tying a white cloth to a tree when he would be back in the evening,
daubing a board with a black mark when he would not be coming
Home was everything to Downing it was the heart not only of the
family but the Republic as well what bound man to place in the
ever-expanding, shifting nation Highland Gardens would be proof
of Downing's theories in action. A
Tudor Gothic villa of sepia sandstone where inside
All
the forms and colors, the style of the furniture, the frames of
the mirrors and pictures, the patterns of the carpets, were harmonious
There
Even
the daylight is duskor, more properly speaking, pregnant
with light...a sort of imprisoned sunshine, something warm and
deep like a reflection of Downing's brown eyes.
While
outside were his tinted lawns, and copses of elms and lindens,
and ashes and yellow horse chestnuts, and spruces and fern-leaved
beeches and white horse chestnuts, and urns and conservatories
and sundials and hermitages, and other improvements upon Nature.
His
Warwick vase and his Borghese vase, and covered seats and weeping
fountains and prospect towers and alpine paths and lily ponds
and above all porches. Porches were Downing's grand idea in microcosm
the vital link that tied the home to the outdoors, the civilized
to the wild. For Downing was doing more than simply showing how
to build a villa he was inventing The suburb.
Just as the porch united home and nature, the suburbs could be
suspended halfway between the barbarism of the wilderness, and
the grime and din of the city. With the new railroads and steamboats,
the old notions of time and space being half annihilated Downing
anticipated the rapid multiplication of pretty cottages and villas
in many parts of North America that would in and of themselves
promote a virtuous and educated republic
And
now everyone came to his perfect lawnthe poets and painters
and witty young people, and the West Point cadets in their chocolate-box
uniforms
It
was a paradise where friends met congenial friend and where the
feast of reason and flow of soul mingled with delicately seasoned
meats, fruits, and wines His fabulous nurseries and greenhouses
filled with flowers and plants and trees his father-in-law's whalers
brought home from around the world. His books on the virtuous
and elegant and above all affordable home favorite wedding presents
ubiquitous on the nightstands of romantic young couples and securing
Downing's reputation as The National Arbiter of Taste
Yet
home was not all it seemed. The sepia sandstone actually stucco
cunningly applied. And even so the debts kept mounting. The house
had replaced too many of the profitable nursery trees and Downing
was always extravagant.
Late
one night a guest in the library saw to his amazement a bookshelf
swing open on noiseless hinges revealing a secret chamber where
Downing labored into the night, under the white plaster busts
of his heroes Dante and Milton and Petrarch and Franklin and Linnaeus
and Scott staring down at him as he edited the Horticulturist,
and wrote his books on landscaping and architecture, and fruit
and botany.
But
then even Old John Peter DeWint sued him over money and put encumbrances
on his home, and soon Downing was forced to sell the splendid
tree nursery. The home and the dream slowly slipping away, like
some lovely, disabled sailboat carried off on the Hudson.
His friends preserved him. They kept him afloat until he won his
suit, got the liens removed from his home. In 1850 Downing was
commissioned to transform the bleak and fetid gullies that surrounded
the White House and the Capitol into a grand national gardens.
By
the time he sailed to England in July he was a celebrity feted
everywhere he went. And he in turn was enthralled by London. By
the galleries of art, public libraries, parks and gardens, which
have raised the people in social civilization to a far higher
degree than what we have yet attained in republican America
Where
the slums were teeming with immigrants, filling up with radical
Germans and starving Irish. The City of New York bursting at the
seams the sewers ran uphill when it rained spewing blood and butcher's
offal into the streets
There
was blood on the paving stones of fashionable Astor Place thirty-one
dead in a riot over an actor named Die Again Macready there was
the Doctors' Riot and the Flour Riots and the Dead Rabbits' Riot
and the Police Riot. Visitors to the city were appalled by the
restless, deeply sunk eye, the excited wearied features of its
denizens.
But
Downing had plans he always had plans he brought back from England
a somber young architect named Calvert Vaux whom he had met in
a picture gallery and convinced to return with him to America
on the spot. Introduced him to a phlegmatic correspondent for
the Horticulturist named Frederick Law Olmstead.For
Downing had decided
If
the people would not come to the country why not bring the country
to the people?
What
was needed was a park. A vast, new park that would have room for
gardens and zoos, and concert halls and art galleries, and science
museums and horticultural societies and a free dairy, so mothers
would not have to buy the blue-tinted, tubercular milk from cows
kept by Manhattan distilleries, and fed on old whiskey mash.
Above
all there would be ladies and gentlemen of accomplishment such
as Downing and his friends so the poorer classes could improve
themselves just through their example. (There would be absolutely
no room for doing the sorts of things the Irish and Germans liked
to do on their holidays that is brawling drinking and playing
baseball.)
By
the summer of 1852 plans for the park were proceeding apace, and
he had commissions in Newport, and plans to start a new magazine
called Country Gentleman and Downing was only 36 and he and Caroline
only seemed to grow more handsome, even younger with age.
That
June they held a feast of roses, and afterwards the company rowed
out to another party, across the river (rowing out on the
shimmering water under the gaze of the Mayan jaguars and warriors
and feathered serpents, brooding over the Hudson after a thousand
years in the jungles of the Yucatan)
There
one of Downing's friends noticed a young woman a handsome woman,
with the traces of hard experience in her face lost in a reverie
in the summer moonlight as a child snatching a brief dream of
peace between spasms of mortal agony.
She
was a widow, a woman named Matilda Wadsworth, a friend to both
Downing and his wife. And as they drifted back across the calm
river at midnight, Downing confided that she had a tragic, romantic
past. Years ago it was she he used to swim across the river to
see.
No
doubt he could swim it still but if he had to die he would prefer
that it be by drowning More mysteries and romantic notions,
influenced no doubt by old stories, and moonlight on the river.
A
month later there was no more talk of tragedy or drowning Mrs.
Wadsworth was as sunny as the day, which was one of the loveliest
of summer. Waiting at the private dock of Highland Gardens, with
Downing and Caroline and the family for the next steamboat to
take them down to Manhattan.
In
Albany the boys ran through the early morning streets calling
"Hurrah for Harry of the West! Take the Henry Clay!" and "Be in
New York first! Take the Armenia. No decent American would board
the Henry Clay!" All that day the slender, white ships raced each
other down through the ancient reaches of the river.
Both
swift as arrows shot over Downing's perfect lawn until the mad
Captain Collyer tied down the Henry Clay's boiler valves and fed
fat cords of pine into the fire so that it shook and hummed, and
raced ahead. This inferno bearing down full speed on the dock
at Highland Gardens where Downing and his family waited.
They
got on. Another mystery.
Perhaps
Downing was simply in a hurry to get up to Newport or maybe it
was that he loved the steamboats floating jewel boxes with their
chandeliers and their orchestras and decktop cotillions. Their
velvet couches and magnificent carpets used by drummers and egg
dealers and peanut politicians and self-made self-righteous self-satisfied
men of every variety.
Speechifying
about politics and religion and the great issues of the day over
their beefsteaks and buckwheat cakes, and baptized toast. Sleeping
five hundred to a cabin, in long white rows of triple-tiered beds.
They were another one of his Parks, another one of his Porches,
his republican openings
By
three o'clock the race was nearly won. The Henry Clay speeding
through the Tappan Zee, almost to Manhattan, when someone noticed
the first wisp of smoke, floating up through the hatchway. A fireman
staggered up on deck, clothes on fire, and within seconds the
whole midships was in flames. The passengers screaming and running
to aft while Collyer too late emerged from his fever dream, swung
hard for the east bank. The engineer tying down the throttle before
he fled the boiler room. She burrowed twenty-five feet up the
shore, and eight feet into a railroad embankment. The fire blowing
back toward the stern which lay still in deep water. The passengers
trapped there, those who could not swim but Downing calmly strode
the deck. Helping his wife and children into the water. Handing
them down deck chairs to float on and Caroline made it to shore
where she gathered up her family, and watched the rescues and
the dredging for bodies 'til nightfall.
The
Hudson calm now, bodies still floating in the clear, moonlit water.
Until at last she returned to the house at Highland Gardens, where
they came to tell her the next day that her mother and husband
were dead. Downing last seen trying to help the struggling Mrs.
Wadsworth but they found them drowned wrapped in each other's
arms.
On
the floor of the Senate Stephen Douglas and Charles Sumner compared
him to Washington and Caroline had to sell off the house, and
the furnishings and the ornaments, butEventually she remarried
and the house was torn down like so many of the grand homes Downing
had landscaped along the Hudson. His widow and friends put up
a monument in Washington in the shape of the great Warwick vase
that had sat upon his perfect lawn.
Round
the bowl were the words that he had written: Plant spacious parks
in your cities, and unloose their gates as wide as the gates of
the morning, to the whole people. As there are no dark places
at noonday, so education and culturethe true sunshine of
the soulwill banish the plague-spots of democracy; and the
dread of the ignorant exclusive who has no faith in the refinement
of a republic...
Nothing
else remained save for the great park in the middle of New York
and the mysteries.
©
Copyright Harper's Magazine 2000