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NATHANIEL’S NUTMEG
OR, THE TRUE AND INCREDIBLE ADVENTURES OF THE SPICE TRADER WHO CHANGED THE COURSE OF HISTORY

By Giles Milton
Illustrated. 388 pp. New York:
Farrar, Straus & Giroux. $24.

By KEVIN BAKER

Kevin Baker is the author of the historical novel "Dreamland" and was the chief historical researcher on Harold Evans’ "The American Century."

"The island can be smelled before it can be seen. From more than ten miles out to sea a fragrance hangs in the air, and long before the bowler-hat mountain hoves into view you know you are nearing land."

So begins Giles Milton in Nathaniel’s Nutmeg, in a style that signals history written as a ripping good yarn as clearly as a skull-and-crossbones run up the mainmast. And a very fine yarn it is, too: the story of the century-long struggle to control the spice trade to Europe from the East Indies; a tale of mind-boggling courage, treachery, endurance, cowardice, greed, and derring-do.

Milton, the author of an earlier book on the British explorer John Mandeville, rivals Evan Connell in his ability to keep the wonder in history. He is a tireless researcher, a first-rate storyteller, and an expert at explaining the sort of things that have baffled Americans since grammar school. For instance, why a spice that now languishes in the back of the average kitchen cabinet until Thanksgiving once sent men sailing halfway around the world in boats no longer than a city bus.

Nutmeg, it seems, was deemed invaluable in 16th- and 17th-century Europe for two reasons—one real and the other an even more important illusion. English doctors or "physicks" were convinced it could cure everything from dysentery to the plague to impotence. One can only imagine what the physicks would have done with laetrile, but nutmeg was also, in those pre-refrigeration days, both an excellent meat preservative. The mark-up on a shipload of this miracle spice could run as high as 60,000 percent—enough to make rich men out of a captain and his backers. Even a sackful, filched by an enterprising sailor, could "set a man up for life" with a nice house and a servant.

Unfortunately for Europeans, nutmeg then grew only in the Banda islands, a nearly inaccessible archipelago that is now part of Indonesia. This was, after all, an era when the mightiest ships of the day were dependent upon the winds, and pathetically vulnerable to storms, doldrums, uncharted reefs; even sea worms that could gnaw right through their timbers on a long enough voyage. They bounced over to the South Seas through a pinball course that took them to the Canary Islands, over to Brazil, back to Cape Town, then up along Madagascar, Aden, India, Sumatra. Roundtrips could take three years, and the men on board suffered incessantly from scurvy, dysentery, and cholera—not to mention Japanese pirates, treacherous Oriental monarchs, and above all their fellow Europeans. Of the first three fleets sent out by the British East India Company, four of the twelve ships and eight hundred of the twelve hundred men involved were lost. Later voyages fared even worse—particularly those expeditions sent into the Arctic wastes on the wishful insistence that there had to be a quicker, easier route through the North Pole.

Despite early forays by Portuguese and Spanish mariners, the "spice race" soon boiled down to a rivalry between the Dutch and the English, through the auspices of their respective, legendary East India companies. Xenophobia, hardship, and greed made the decades-long contest an increasingly deadly one. Milton paints a harrowing picture of Bantam, that "stinking stew" of a Javanese port which sounds like the very embodiment of Hobbes’ state of nature. Along streets beset by typhus, fire, nonexistent sewerage, and general lawlessness, European sailors and merchants alternately waylaid each other and made common cause against the local inhabitants.

Despite many individual acts of daring, the British East India Company had a penchant for hiring imbecilic commanders. The Dutch had Jan Coen, a ruthless, sardonic, thoroughly frightening individual who brought the struggle to a murderous crescendo early in the seventeenth century. Coen and his Dutch went on a methodically murderous rampage, razing the old port of Jakarta to the ground, enslaving most of the population of the Bandas, and even chopping down all the nutmeg trees on Run, the one island England could still lay a claim to.

Here Milton brings his narrative to a pulsing climax, detailing the horrific torture and execution of several innocent British merchants, and recounting the heroic stand of the eponymous British Captain Nathaniel Courthope on tiny Run. His descriptions of Courthope’s resistance are particularly riveting, but he does stumble slightly down the stretch over one of his main premises, which is just how much all this had to do with the world we know today.

Desperately short of food and water, lacking any seaworthy ships, and bereft of help from home, Courthope held out for three long years, and Milton lauds his "patriotism, duty, and an unswerving belief that what he was doing was right." He credits Courthope with fully establishing the British claim to Run and—by so doing—making it possible, nearly fifty years later, for the British to trade those rights for an island they had recently seized from the Dutch on the other side of the world.

"...Manhattan had been a small trading centre...," claims Milton. "Now, the island was set to enter a new and ever more prosperous period in its history—a period that would see it rise and rise until the name New York was fabled around the globe."

This is a nice try, but one is left feeling that Milton is trying too hard to find a hero for an often sordid tale. After all, Courthope was finally ambushed and killed by the Dutch, and Run was, well, overrun. The British acquisition of Manhattan was due as much to several other factors—not least of which was the propensity of the island’s already solipsistic residents to steal chunks of timber and stone from its only fort for use in building their own homes. As for Manhattan’s "rise and rise," that would seem to have at least a little to do with those of us who have been here since the British sailed out through the Verrazano Narrows in 1783, leaving the place a burnt out ruin.

But this overreaching detracts only slightly from what is a rousing historical romp. Milton leaves one both yearning for a time when the world seemed new, and full of infinite adventure—and appalled by what human greed led us to do to such a paradise. It is particularly sobering to read of the knee-jerk tendency of the Europeans to slaughter any other people they came across. A Dutch sailor’s reaction to a another orgy of bloodletting—visited upon the Bantam Javanese for asking too high a price for their nutmeg—sums it up splendidly: "There was nothing missing and everything was perfect," he wrote, "except what was wrong with ourselves."

 

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